The Archipelago in Gothenburg
One of the best things about Gothenburg is its easy access to genuine nature. The Southern Archipelago off the coast of Gothenburg is a maritime playground easily reached by public transport. The Northern Archipelago is accessible by car with opportunities for kayaking and fishing.
Gothenburg southern archipelago by SWE Nature & Walks // Music: Ehrling - Sommar Bobbo Ericsson
The car-free Southern Archipelago is beautiful, tranquil (depending on the weather!) and accessible with a mere 24 minutes on the number 11 tram from Järntorget. What's great, is the tram ticket allows for 90 minutes travel on any public transport including a boat to the islands – not bad for 34 SEK! The boats are regular and comfortable with views that are genuinely spectacular. Head upstairs and grab a fika from the cafe whilst watching the ocean and islands pass by. It gives a whole different perspective on the city and is worth doing alone as an (almost) free sightseeing cruise. Boats leave every half hour or so on the way out. Check times for the boats back unless you want to escape from city living entirely.
There is no denying that the islands are better explored when the weather is kind. In the wind you feel how exposed they are. You can either wander in search of your own private corner of the island to relax in peace; or follow signs to busier, public spots. The pace of life here is slower and, strolling around, you will find paths winding through the community and gain a sense you've stepped back in time. The islands are great for hiking, biking and fishing. The seafood is, as you would expect, world-class if a little rough around the edges.
Most people get off at Styrsö. This is the hub with the most food options - Pensionat Styrsö Skäret for dinner or Cafe Obergska for lunch. If you walk straight ahead from the port you go past the tennis courts and then into a narrow country road. Follow your nose and you will see signs for footpaths that take you alternately through the forest and quaint, colourful wooden houses. Being a small island you are never too far from the ocean. There are four small villages on the island; Byn - the oldest, Bratten - with a beach, Tången - the traditional fishing village and Halsvik - gorgeous houses. Stora Rös is the island's high point with spectacular views of all the islands. Given more time some of these other islands are well worth exploring too and possess their own charm.
Donsö is an island connected to Styrsö by a bridge. To the North you have Brännö and its great family-friendly beach at Ramsdal and also a cool cafe & bar Brännö Varv. The island of Vrångrö at the southern tip of this group of islands has nature reserves and sandy beaches. Vargö is the furthest out to sea and has no conveniences but offers perhaps the most rugged experience.
The Northern Archipelago is far more populated with cars on all ten of its islands. Though not as charming as the South the views can be just as stunning. Höno has a marina with lots of seaside activities available including fishing and kayaking.
This Is Gothenburg [2023]
Images: Göteborg & Co, Jorma Valkonen, Steampipe Production Studio AB, Beatrice Törnros
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